AFGHANISTAN: from love to hate ... TWO WEEKS OF MOUNTAIN TRANSITION (continued, p.7) After eating as much bread, which has remained quite small, the five of us went up the hill towards the pass Akbilis. Glory to God, to overcome the pass proved to be difficult. A small slope that brought us to a long smooth pass, which is more like a valley. On both sides it is surrounded by steep cliffs on the slopes where the snow seemed to have started just a few yards up from us. From time to time we come across streams flowing down from the heights, water, of which we have replenished their stocks. Excavated burrows of marmots were talking about the presence here of a large and powerful predator. - Bear? - I asked Said, pointing to one of the holes. He looked at me blankly and questioning. - Very high - I said, raising his hands and bent his fingers like legs with claws, and mouth wide open, so in my face there was an evil grimace. - Ah, yes, - he said, pointing at the hole. - Bear. A couple of hours we made a halt at a small lake. Poor old Wadud, as soon as we stopped, again fell to the ground and clasped his head with his hands. "Not good" - he said in the Wakhan, pointing to his eyebrow. Time to rest, we were not, dusk. And a few minutes later we were back on the road. When we reached the other side of the pass, traders from Badakhshan goodbye to me and Said. I was sad to see how they go. Over the past few days I got used to them. They tried very hard to overcome the language barrier, we managed to build some relationships more quickly than in the circumstances could be expected. Yurt Karchinde hour later we arrived at Karchind, which consisted of three yurts, standing next to a big puddle of dirt, soil and manure, which was a large flock of sheep and a few yaks. On the other side of the puddle was an earthen structure, next to him sat an old man. Before we came here, Said and I jumped from rock to rock, trying to cross a river. Then we stopped Said gestured that should not go any further. "Sit down" - he said, and we both sat on the rocks. He waved to the old man, he did not answer. For two minutes no one moved. Between us was about a hundred meters. Then the old man got up and went into the house. A moment later he reappeared with the carpet in his hands. As if in passing, he hit the carpet on the wall of the house, then spread it on the ground and sat down again on the stone. And again we sat opposite each other in silence. Yak A minute later the old man got up and walked towards us exaggeratedly slowly, sometimes stopping to learn something very interesting on the ground that at a distance was impossible to discern. In the end, he came to us, alarmed shook hands with us and started a conversation with Said. In a few minutes we began to move toward its earthen home. "Problem?" - I asked Said. "No, no problem," - he replied. We dismantled the bag and boarded in a house where there were two young men. Both of them were clearly Kyrgyzstan, as an old man - badahshanets, although he did so far from his native Badakhshan, and why not lived with other dogs, I did not understand. Temporary pristanitse Through the open door into the house went cold air, I struck a chill, and I put on her clothes, which I had with me, then I climbed into my sleeping bag. Tremor gradually grew into a twitching, which eventually became so strong that they started to sound like a convulsion. Monstrous morning migraines returned. Nobody but Said did not pay attention to how I was shaking on the floor, gasping for air. - Problem? - He asked. - Big, big problem - I answered. - Hot tea - very good! - Tea, a problem - he replied, shaking his head. - No, no problem. Tea, please! - I insisted, though, and realized what was the problem. Previous villages where we stopped for the night were the Wakhan, that is, his family, and now we were in unknown territory for both of us, no friends, relatives and friends. After a rather strange reception, which gave us an old man, Said it was inconvenient to ask for anything. Although, at my urgent request, he went and asked, and after half an hour brought us bread and salted tea. The man who brought us food, going out, closed the door behind him. It turned out that the door was just before that moment, I simply do not notice it. I could not understand why nobody else had the idea to close the door, although it was obvious that I'm freezing. Start material: Read more:
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