AFGHANISTAN: from love to hate ... TWO WEEKS OF MOUNTAIN TRANSITION (continued, Part 6) Shortly after our arrival in the village, where besides us and the merchants there was nobody on the street was too cold, so we moved in together one of the houses. Traders had kindled a fire and began cooking. They refused food, which I offered to them. Only took a small packet of masala (spice mix, approx. Perevi.), Which added to the onion soup with noodles. After the soup Wadud began to cook rice with butter, salt and raisins, and Danuk silently sprawled across the room. Strange, but no Wadud, nor his companions that evening did not pray. I went to sleep, after eating so much as not to load during this campaign, either before or after. Wadud and its product the next day we had breakfast crumbled biscuits and salted tea. Then lay down their belongings and carried them into the street. I stumbled out of the new attack of vertigo. Head does not hurt, but the feeling was not pleasant. Just my condition was far from that, which usually can be walked through the pass six o'clock in the Afghan Pamirs. "You okay?" - Asked me Wadud in the Wakhan. I gestured that I was very dizzy. He immediately took out some papers, and opened them and gave me two handfuls of pills, showing that a handful were for those moments when I started to choke, and another - a headache. I tried to offer him money because he knew that he came to the Pamirs specifically to sell their wares, but he did not want to hear anything, and his friends supported his decision. Together, we returned to the other side of the valley, then crossed a large wetland. Here you need to jump and leap from one section of the solid earth to the other. Then we began to climb up to the pass. The road was not steep, but it's not the end all rose up and up until then, until we invaded, which is almost completely ruled white. Again had to wade through deep snow, which gradually stuffed in shoes. All were silent when he reached the top and walked along a flat surface between the peaks about two hours. My breathing is again very difficult. Precipice on the other side grassy valley Varmdih we made a halt. Wadud stretched at full length, and hid his face in his hands. "You okay?" - I asked him. He gestured that he was dizzy. My own head, despite the slight dizziness, almost returned to normal. A little rest, we continued our journey. In the first settlement, which was on our itinerary, we were invited to drink tea with bread and salted, but we stayed there for long, as the rush to the nearest village to the pass Akbilis. Sam Pass, we had to cross the next day. When we got there, we were greeted by two men short, somewhat reminiscent of the dwarfs. Embarrassed, their smiles and almost the same person betrayed them brothers. They carried us into the tent, which was located next to three houses, of which, indeed, was a village. In the tent we were treated to bread, yogurt and salted tea and gave the night a blanket. Groundhog I woke up in the middle of the night with a terrible headache and a parched throat. Chance that I go to sleep again, almost was not. I just lay in a semi-conscious - maybe I had a slight fever - and hoping that others will soon wake up. I vaguely remember Danuk Wadud and drinking tea somewhere to the left of me, but oddly enough, I did not ask them to treat me ... A little later, a thick bearded man something steadily humming in a low voice, standing in front of other three, they all bowed down in silence during pauses in his singing ... then there was nothing but my pain and thirst, and I lay in silence ... Then again, followed by singing and prayer. After long hours of waiting dawn came, and everyone else woke up. My head is still throbbing with pain, my throat was still drier than before, and all that I saw last night, it seemed more a dream than a reality. "You okay?" - Said Wadud. I gestured, as if hit my head and grimaced to indicate that I have a bad headache. Then I tried to stand but the pain increased to such strength that I just had to go back. They are anxiously talked among themselves, and someone went for tea. I began to suspect that I did not get to the Kyrgyz village called Karchind. He is on the other side of the pass Akbilis. "Karchind come five o'clock," - said Said. "Do you drink tea, sleep, 12 hours to go, no problems." Over the next few hours, I drank about ten cups of tea and some pills, which gave me Wadud. I am gradually getting better. By nine o'clock I was able to get up and go outside, though his head is still very sick and dizzy. Most of the time before noon I lay. Start material: Read more:
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