Three "K": KAZAKHSTAN, CORRUPTION, COSMODROME (continued, p.2) We left early in the morning, in the distance were visible pads, which are located in the desert near the cosmodrome. Next to the village of Tyuratam is a curious place. There are hundreds of power poles go north into the desert, passing energy to the launch site. Fortunately for Russia, we did not want to interfere with the performance of its program in the second space race, and instead spent the day on the main road in the only cafe where you could see another defeat of England at the wonderful color TV. Camp in the desert Kyzyl Kum road turned to the west, and on this stretch of road, as it turned out, except for us, too, someone moved. I'm all in vain looked for a classic Soviet-Russian "Lada", but we found only curly camels or horses with a ring in your ear. Tati desperately struggled with the heat, expensive and corruption, and if not Old School, the desert took to himself another cyclist. My companion was tested with honor and even cheered up considerably when the road turned north toward the Aral. Despite all our efforts today, when the entire 120 km we rode against the wind, the town is nothing special in terms of scenery could not offer us. Some kind of village, the hills and dunes, filled with camels and horses became decorations last camp, we pitched in the wilderness. Crossing the Sahara, Gobi and Kyzyl Kum were not easy and memorable adventure, but during this trip we had already crossed 6,000 miles across the desert, so we thought we deserved the award, and it's time to find a small house in the village. We'll leave the conquest of the western deserts of the Kazakh real heroes or crazy nerds as they are called more frequently. Aral, in contrast to what we talked about it, was living a nice little town compared to those cities that we visited recently. This city stands in the desert, like a reminder of those brave people who have watched as the sea gradually receded over the decades. This happened in 60 years of the last century due to an incorrect Soviet planning and mismanagement of technology of cultivation of cotton. In our time, the irrigation system the Syr Darya River has been revised, and now the river again flows into the Aral Sea. Due to the construction of the dam, which was attended by builders from many countries, water is no longer doomed to leave in the southern part of the Aral Sea, and now she supports the Northern Aral Sea at a certain constant level. Now here again created a fishing fleet. There are several theories on which the water level in the Aral Sea is subject to strong variations. The mosque, which was found at the bottom of the sea, gave another proof of this theory. Apparently, or that the theory is correct, any fish here are very religious. Although 80nbsp;% of that sea has lost more than 50 years, I think, speaks of a giant human error and not on climate change. Court without the sea for some time I spent in a dried bay, trying to find the remains of rusting ships, and then we, together with another knowledgeable tourist Greg from New Zealand visited the small local museum. In the Aral is a little interesting things: the hotel does not have a sea view (I asked), but there is not one, but two legendary Ladas. Great work, I finally found them! A truly momentous day in the history of mankind. During a trip to second-class trains to the city of Atyrau was stuffy and uncomfortable. We are constantly asked some questions of "how much do you earn?" To "how many in your country is a small tube of toothpaste?" I'm not sure, but it seems not very hospitable to ask such questions. Do not get me wrong, I do not care that there is anyone who thinks about how much I earn (the more so because in such countries, I always lie to that effect, greatly underestimate the amount). Kazakhs did not seem to me those who may be called hospitable to me they seemed awfully curious. Plain and simple. The trip by rail was much more calm. The door to the compartment is closed, air-conditioned, and in the coupe ratio of two of us against one of the local "- in our favor. I answered a few questions nachet my dreadlocks (traditional Jamaican hairstyle, hair, braided into many strands, approx. Perevi.) - Real or not. On this they asked me to pass the car quite a pleasant Kazakh girl, who, incidentally, quite badly spoken in English. Very soon we got to Atyrau and the beaches of the Caspian Sea, which are littered with shards of broken glass. Legendary Lada If you travel to Kazakhstan started badly, continued it's completely normal, and ending it was just superb. In the main square of Atyrau get free rock concert. We even hung out with members of the local group "Double Face", which plays in the style of death metal. " Before the concert, we drank a few glasses of vodka in the hotel, with even heavily intoxicated, and, fortunately, not smart enough to throw the TV out the window. Kazakhstan has become a difficult test for us. Heavy road, corrupt policemen, a low value for money, a little interesting and a lot of controversy. One day the driver is able to offer us money, passing by, and on another day, another driver is able to specifically go for us to knock down the road. Nightmare of one - is the dream of another. We flew by plane from Kazakhstan, who seemed made out of cardboard and bubble gum. "Liner", wagging, he went west to Tbilisi, where we waited for a little rest. Start material:
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