AFGHANISTAN: from love to hate ... TWO WEEKS OF MOUNTAIN TRANSITION (continued, Part 9) When we went down the other side of the pass, juicy tender piece of meat, which captures all of my imagination in the last few hours, eliminating almost all other thoughts miraculously materialized in real life. We were about three hours from the night. I walked fast and did not even think about the rest, keeping the pace. I managed to completely ignore the thoughts of fatigue and an empty stomach. I just wanted to quickly get to the final point in our transition. We passed a caravan of donkeys and horses, which was headed in the opposite direction with a large flock of sheep. He walked a little higher on the slope, so we just waved in greeting. A minute later, one of the traders ran up to us. - Hey! - Okriknul it takes us. I turned around, not slowed down, and saw in his hand a big cut. - Drugs! Drugs! Do you have any drugs? - He shouted in the Wakhan. At first I shook my head and continued to walk, just wanting as soon as possible to get there, where it is warm and satisfying. However, almost immediately I realized that I could not deceive the person to whom I could help. If he was going to Kyrgyz camp, it may take a few weeks before he gets there, where there will be drugs. I stopped, nodded at him and cried Said, that he stopped. Said is back, unloaded the donkey and pulled out a first aid kit. Village Varma I washed the wound disinfected and delivered a healing glue, then stuck the plaster and bandaged hand. - Thank you! Thank you! - Tell me a little man in a purple turban, almost deliriously grateful. Then he said something to Sayid. The meaning of what has been said of me slipped. - Do I have dinner? - Asked Said. - Rice, meat! - Yes, yes, very good! - I said, dripping saliva, almost mad with happiness. Together, we climbed the hill up to where the assembled company of merchants that came with the caravan. They sat on the canvas, spread out on the slopes. We have all five of us sat down to drink - Hail, God! - Unsalted black tea, while another man was preparing a meal away from us. Trader with chopped his hand about an hour later we were served a wonderful plate of greasy rice, boiled in mutton broth, and a piece of meat, which until recently was for me the only fruit of a sick imagination, an unattainable dream. I swallowed the meat very quickly. They all ate the same dish with your hands, just as it happened during my stay in Afghanistan. We had to squeeze the rice into small balls and put them in your mouth. I ate until the whole is not smeared with grease, but in the end I had stomach ache. Then I took another drink of black tea. Dinner with meat and us, and merchants was coming a long way, so quickly after lunch, we parted. However, just before our departure from Said forward carried the carcass of a sheep, whose meat we had just eaten. As a gift to us handed her insides. For a moment I doubted whether I give them money, but then realized that people with such strong traditions of hospitality would obviously offended by such a proposal. That night we spent the night in the village Raurin. Modest supper sheep entrails and bread and salted tea. I was in a state where the very thought of drinking made me shudder, but I could not refuse - so great was the pleasure of ingesting a warm drink and an incredible amount of radiant smiles of our hosts. Women and children Sang Navishty The next morning I woke up very hungry, but it just was not able to forcibly shove a normal amount of stale bread. Everything on that I had enough - one cup of salted tea. On that day the first three hours of transition were therefore not the most simple, despite the fact that the road ran through flat terrain. Upon arrival at the Sang Navishtu I bought Sarfiroza some rice, cooked it slowly for an hour eating, not allowing yourself to eat at the same time, allowing the stomach to get out of its folded state. We continued to go at a much higher path than the one on which we have come to Sang Navishtu few days before. From time to time we walked down the winding path down the slope of the gorge, and again went up the hill, but on the other side. Fortunately, I completely conquered the mountain sickness, and we advanced rapidly, even before the beginning of the evening arrived in the village of Goz budge. Start material: Completion of material:
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