AFGHANISTAN: from love to hate ... TWO WEEKS OF MOUNTAIN TRANSITION (continued, p.2) The house was left without a roof and one wall collapsed. Two other walls were made of stones piled one upon another, and the third was a huge slightly overhanging boulder. Cost us only get to the place, as Said has collected a few stones and branches, lit a fire and cook rice in our common pot. When everything was nearly ready, and I got to the bank of tomato paste, about to add it to your rice for flavor. Said looked at the bank with disbelief. - Meat? - He asked. - No, not meat - I replied. Well, this flimsy bridge was not very highly considered that it would not eat canned meats western production due to the fact that it has not been prepared in accordance with Islamic tradition, I have indicated on the container, on which were depicted tomatoes. He looked at her puzzled and frowning. - I - no ... - he said, shrugging his shoulders and pointed to a bright red vegetables. Surely, he had never seen a tomato? I tried to depict were going to have something from the tree to demonstrate that we are talking about fruits and vegetables, but not sure he understood what I mean. - Ishkashim! - I said, explaining where I bought a jar. - Ishkashim? - He asked in surprise. - Yes, - I replied. - Very, very tasty. In fact, it was not very tasty, but pasta can make a simple Afghan rice more tasty. - Meat is not? Fish do not have? - He asked. - No Meat, fish do not - I confirmed. He took a jar and a long time it looked. - I do not - finally, he decided, giving the bank. It was only 5:00 pm, but much colder. We quickly ate. I climbed into a sleeping bag, Saeed under their blankets. Three wall-seekers fairly well protected from the wind. "Everything will be fine unless it starts to rain" - I thought, looking through the nonexistent roof at the gloomy sky. The same bridge in the background of the gorge, "No rain - very good!" - "I said. In the pauses, which I inserted between the first and the second part of this proposal, the sky fell down the first drop, rastekshis on my nose. Gradually began to fall, and other single drop, turning in a drizzling rain, which even though he was a gentle, but he could soak our clothes, on which in the end we would feel not very comfortable in the cool of the night. We quickly eaten all my rice, covered with blankets and as much as possible vzhalis into a corner, which formed overhanging boulder. Fortunately, the rain was a direct and shed just enough to hide from him. And although the dry space was a real rescue, cold and bumpy surface of the earth did not give hard to sleep, I kept waking up during the night. Early in the morning, I lay quietly in the dark, waiting for the sky will paint the first rays of the sun. When it happened, was about 5 o'clock in the morning, we were already on their feet and were going to continue the journey. I had finished the remainder of the evening rice, Said prefer bread, saying: "Rice, a breakfast, I - the problem" - and pointed to her stomach. From Shauro trail went steeply up to a small plateau, which lies about a third of the way to the top. We crossed it and met a caravan of donkeys, who went in the opposite direction. A lively dialogue between Sayid and passengers caravan, which was followed by a slow and confused explanation Said to me, revealed that the deserted village of Barak, which is believed Saeed, is 3-4 hours from Shauro actually located directly beneath us, with the other side of the plateau. Half an hour after the start of the campaign we got to a few stone buildings that make up the village. Many of the houses were connected to the caves. After crossing a footbridge and unreliable met another caravan of donkeys returning from the Pamir Mountains, along with purchased where yaks and sheep, we began to climb up the almost sheer cliff. It was at this point I began to realize how precious my dalsya previous day. As soon as the waters of the river Langar removed farther and farther, my strength began to leave me. My legs did not hurt, but the feeling of general tiredness came over me, and I just could not keep going. Having two-thirds of recovery, we made a halt for 5 minutes, another 15-minute stop was at the top. By the time I was dizzy, and the continuation of the path I did not think I could. I thought it was a bout of altitude sickness due to the fact that we climbed so high. - Problem? Problem? - Time and again asked Said during a boom, apparently, noticing that I was not in great shape. - No, - I answered each time louder and with ever-increasing irritation in his voice. At some point I just was shouting at him, thus demonstrating that something was obviously wrong. At the top of a mountain trail trail, fortunately, has leveled off, but after 10 minutes I finally had to admit to himself, and Said that the problem still had a place to be. I lay down and pointed to the ground, said: "One Hour". - Neet, neeeeet, a very big problem - he said. - Sang Navishta (end point of our transition in the day) 5:00! - One hour - I said, shrugging his shoulders as if to say: "What can I do?" We were mostly in silence. He occasionally showed that it was time to get up and go, I'm embarrassed, shook his head and smiled broadly, trying to make amends for his irritability. Start material: Completion of material:
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