Divided into two countries - Part 5

GOLF COURSES, CHURCHES AND meze (ending, p.5) The next day we decided to once again go on a wild mountain roads and found nine churches with frescoes, which are included in the UNESCO cultural heritage list. These small churches built during the Byzantine period, from the outside do not make absolutely no impression, but they have inside with floor to ceiling painted with religious images. Cypriots have built them in the mountains, to protect their religious values ??from the hordes of foreign invaders. In each church had its own superintendent, who gave a key or escort, in broken English telling the remarkable story of his village church. Some churches have been abandoned, and we had to look in the window and settle for such a view. All questions met with bewilderment, which was caused by language barriers, but often it was possible to get a multilingual brochure or a book that fully satisfy our curiosity. Church of Panagia Poditu near the village of Galata After we left the church of the Archangel Michael in the village Pedulas, we called the keeper of a small museum, which was located across the road. I'm not proud of it, but neither I nor Lance museums do not like. But this time we are. There was no absolutely no way that politely decline and leave. And the glory of God. We went inside and were amazed. This tiny unassuming museum, lost in the wilderness Cyprus has the most incredible collection of Greek Orthodox icons, many of which are over a thousand years. The following 45 minutes curator accompanied us on the exhibit to exhibit, and a very interesting talking about their special importance. He proudly stated that those exhibits, which did not exist on the site have been provided for an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum in New York, and that university students from around the world come to him in a museum to explore the ancient icons. Terrific! Museum in the village Pedulas We gave the food the brain, but our stomachs were empty. Somehow managed to find another restaurant that we were advised. He was hiding in the narrow winding streets Pedulasa. Lunch at restaurant "That Vries," was another culinary miracle, but perfect complement to that was a wonderful dialogue with his owner Harry. Monastery of Kykkos After lunch we continued on our way. Fortunately, I managed to figure out how to cut the road to Troodos fourth church, the Church of the Holy Cross in the village Pelendri. According to the map and road signs, dirt road, which was on our right, was to lead directly to the church. The first question that we'll get there, where planned, appeared after we have come across numerous lateral branches, not marked by any road signs. In the end, I completely lost a sense of orientation. Already, eight kilometers away, I wished that offered to go straight. Fortunately, at that moment stepped professional skills of Lance to find the necessary land from scratch. He put in front of a map and just trust your intuition. Notwithstanding his own belief that the last four turns, he turned the wrong way, I kept my mouth shut. And then I waited for a shock. Lance turned once again and we went straight to church. This church may well receive the prize as "most hidden"! We looked inside, and of course, found there an old Cypriot who is ready to share with us the history of stunning frescoes that were painted with the ancient walls of the church. Limassol next stop in our mountain adventure began Kykkos Monastery, 900 years of the current Greek Orthodox monastery. Boggles the mind, as normal human beings (using only some simple invention, and by domestic animals) were able to raise at this height is a huge amount of stones. Whether they survived until the end of construction or paid with their lives for the construction of this religious cover? The monastery was spotlessly clean, probably because of other activities, except harvesting and prayer, was not here. The interior of the church is almost entirely composed of gold. Now pure gold is combined with gold leaf and gold paint. The church was filled censers and magnificent frescoes. As we have seen in the larger churches, which we have already managed to visit, believers often venerate the icons lips. In this church, this process was the most emotional. I would like to speak to one of the monks who passed us to understand the lifestyle that they led for centuries on the slopes of the mountain, but I refrained. We looked in the gift shop of the monastery, and were surprised that it was full of wonderful flavored liqueur (we bought with the scent of kiwi!) That produce the monks. Roman ruins in the ancient city of Kourion One feature of the Greek Orthodox Church, which became apparent to us after visiting several churches in Cyprus, was the rise of the Virgin Mary and her mother, St. Anne, and a high degree of idolatry. In some churches could be seen the image of these two saints, seated on thrones, are often located higher than Jesus, there were also some frescoes of saints, which we have with Lance had never heard of. I do not no reason to believe that the whole thing in the dominant position of women (and polytheism), which occurs in several ancient pagan religions of Cyprus. The only way to make this Christianity was allowed residents to keep an invisible link with their original beliefs. After visiting the mysterious mountain villages we did the last stop in the bustling coastal town of Limassol. Our hotel - Hotel Chrielka Apartmentz "- was simple but attractive for its unusualness. It is located in downtown, a block from the beach and a stone's throw from the city park. We both did not have enough quiet mountain villages, which we liked more messy urban areas. However, the coffee-mocha (a cocktail of coffee, chocolate, milk and whipped cream, approx. Perevi.), Which we tried in the Cafe "Chocolate", has helped us to accelerate our longing. Old Limassol was very nice, we really liked the visit to the museum of the Middle Ages, which is located in an old castle (built by the Byzantines around the X century), walk along the old streets. One of the best meals in Limassol we tasted in the Lebanese restaurant has Cleopatra. " There we were served meze, which is slightly different from the Cypriot version. Its incredibly prepared from fresh ingredients, which recently brought out of Lebanon. The only disappointment was that we missed the belly dancing and hookah smoking, which were in the program the day before. I'd get much more pleasure from belly dance, where it is more than just a fashionable form of exercise! But put it off until the next visit. Ancient mosaic in the Curia last days on the island we spent walking through the Roman, Greek and Phoenician ruins, located on the coast. A short trip in a small village (I forgot her name!) Gave us another opportunity to look at the real lives of the Cypriots. Old men smoking outside a local coffee shop, while women dressed in black clothing, follow the priest around the nearby church. Our return home, which took 32 hours to put it mildly, it was very tiring. Due to the small number of flights from Paphos to London, we flew to the capital of the UK is very late and we had protorchat in the hall at Heathrow Airport from 2 to 6 o'clock. We tried to sleep, but hard (and dirty), recliners, located near the main entrance into the airport were not in any way fit for the rest. Travel to Cyprus, which became a state trip to a time machine, which is uniquely cost of all suffering and found some link that will be hard to break. I'm looking forward to the day when the newspaper will announce the termination of Turkish occupation, when open borders, and Cypriots can live peacefully and quietly on this remarkable island. Start material: