AFGHANISTAN: from love to hate ... TWO WEEKS OF MOUNTAIN TRANSITION (continued, part 3) In the end, we got up and walked for about an hour to more or less straight path. When we face appeared particularly impressive views of the rugged mountain peaks, I reached into my pocket for the camera, but was unsuccessful in his pocket nothing. I remembered with horror that the camera was lying on the ground beside me, where we made camp for the last time. Using our fast-paced language code based on specific words, phrases and gestures, I told Said, where I left my camera. He immediately said that he would return and fetch it. Understanding of guilt and feeling very very tired to argue, I agreed. - I (English word) wait (word on the Wakhan) here (gesture) - "I said. (Vahantsy - one of the Muslim peoples of the Pamirs, approx. Perevi.) - No, you wait for the house - he said, pointing to the mountain. - A little expensive. The Valley Varmdih Do, a village near Sang Navishta? I do not believe it, but I thought once he told me to move on alone, then at least the road should not be difficult. I continued to move forward riding on a donkey, occasionally adjusting his long wooden stick, as shown by me Said. At the same time he went to the other side, where we just recently arrived. Much to my surprise, two minutes later, I drove into the village. Two rows of three dark stone houses in each stood facing each other, separated by a small grassy patch of land. I looked through the door in each of the houses, but they were abandoned. For a while I sat in the street, glad to rest. In a short time got a cold piercing wind, and I decided to have a donkey in one of the houses and then find yourself a shelter. I lay inside, weak and emaciated, and waited for the return of Saida. On the road from Sarhad in Baji Goz Two hours later, Sayid returned with my camera. It was two o'clock in the afternoon, and we faced a problem: to Sang Navishty, as he said, was four hours go. Completely dark for half of the seventh. Will we continue the way, making only minor halts? Should we hurry to the village, to heat, or is it to spend the night here in the cold of an abandoned house? - Here the cold. Countryside - Varma (heat). - Two hours - said Said, pointing to the mountains. - Sang Navishta? - I asked incredulously. I was sure that two hours I would be able to survive if you make frequent halts, especially with the prospect of the village of heat as a reward. - No heat (Varma), - he answered. - Heat (Varma) - name of the village? - I asked. - Yes, - he nodded. - Heat in the Sung Navishta - how many hours? - I asked. - Three - was the answer. - Village Varma - is there a man, woman? - And, yes, - he nodded. So, we went to the village called Varma (Heat), in which people lived. She was a little away from our route, but it was closer than Sang Navishta. In the mountain I was climbing to its limits. About halfway to snow. He quickly increased to such an extent that visibility had dropped to 10 meters. When only an hour from the summit of another mountain in the distance seemed a terrible home Varma, I wanted to laugh out loud with relief. Now we will have food, a roof over your head, you may be able to borrow a few blankets on the bed and get warm by the fire. Saeed went ahead, breaking through heavy snow. He went into all the houses, coming across his path. He never was late, no one spoke. I began to feel very excited, because it realized that this village has long abandoned by people. Said looked at the last house, turned and approached me with a shrug. We went to an empty house and unloaded the ass. - Rice - I said, already pretty hungry by that time. - Firewood no, no water - a problem - he said, shaking his head. - Firewood is not? Water is not? - I asked, pointing to the street. He went out to look around. Said he returned half an hour later with several branches. As a result, he found some wood and do not find water. We briefly able to make a fire, but the figure did not have time to cook. I ate so much stale bread as I could hold my stomach, and quickly fell asleep in a small fire, which spread Said. We woke up and discovered that almost everything is covered with half-meter layer of snow. - Very, very issue - said Said. - I - road - no! He did not know the way to Sang Navishty, and the path was now hidden under snow. After even more disjointed dialogue, it was decided that the better we will return to the previous abandoned village. Another mountain stream, at least we knew where to find water. Summing things, we left the house. For a while we both stood in silence, pondering the way back to the village, which was also cold, and that was even more removed from the final destination of our journey. - Sang Navishta road - can not be a problem? - I asked. - No problem! - Suddenly decided to Said. From joy I laughed out loud, and we went, wading through the snow, leaving the village on the opposite the side where we came from. I do not know what made him change his mind, but I was extremely glad that it happened. Start material: Read more:
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